Whenever one terminates a wire in a lug etc, a weak point is created at
the transition and continued flexing could cause the joint to fail. In
addition, because we use a lug that is really made for a larger diameter
wire (we use this lug because of its thicker material), there is also
the possibility, that with long term strain, the wire could possibly
pull out of the lug's barrel. In order to avoid either of these
failures, PAR has come up with the following method to attach the lug.
We have never had a failure reported.
STEP 1:
Strip back 1/8" of insulation. |
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STEP 2:
Tin the exposed wire. |
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STEP 3:
Strip back an additional 1/2" (5/8"
total exposed) |
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STEP 4:
Use a pair of needle nose to bend the
exposed wire back on itself. |
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STEP 5:
Quickly tin the entire exposed wire. |
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STEP 6:
Solder the wire into the supplied
#10 lug. This is most easily done by
first filling the lug barrel with
solder, and then inserting the bent over
wire into the barrel. Be careful not to
insert the wire so far that it impinges
on the lug area that will be required to
sandwich with the flat washers. |
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STEP 7:
If available, run a ring of hot melt
glue around the wire/barrel interface. |
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STEP 8:
Quickly push the 1/8" shrink up to
the interface and rotate it to evenly
spread the glue. |
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STEP 9:
Slide the 1/4" shrink over the barrel.
exposed) |
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STEP 10:
Shrink the entire assembly. As the
assembly gets hot the glue will spread
evenly under the shrink. |
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BACK to TECH
NOTES |
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